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Café
con Leche

Being a Cuban,
although frustrating at times, has some wonderful
benefits. One of those benefits is café con leche.
While I was growing up, I did not know of one Cuban
household where café con leche was not served in the
morning. From the moment a Cuban child graduates
from formula, café con leche is poured into the baby
bottle and given to them every morning.
Café con leche is
a pretty simple concoction; you take heated milk,
add some Cuban coffee, lots of sugar, and a dash of
salt. Do not ask me what the salt is for, I have
never been able to figure that one out. But you
cannot have authentic café con leche without a dash
of salt. Some people prefer to add it to the already
mixed coffee and milk, and others, like my mother,
would add it to the milk she poured into the pot to
heat the milk on the stove for the entire family.
That is another thing, too; it is not real café con
leche if you heat in a microwave. Maybe it is all in
my head, but milk heated in a microwave just does
not taste the same. You can heat the milk with one
of those steam vents like the restaurants use if you
have one of those fancy espresso machines, which
falls within the café con leche rules and
regulations, but for that home taste, you have to
use a thin tin pot on a stove.
A true Cuban
household has to have at least one thin tin pot in
the cupboard for the making of the morning café con
leche. In addition, it has to be the replacement of
at least two or three pots that melted into the
burner when someone left the heating milk
unattended. As a kid, I found the charred black
melted metal disk with a pot handle sticking out
hilarious. My mother, however, never found it that
funny.
Sometimes, when
lady luck would glance my way, we would run out of
sugar and my mother would be forced to use leche
condensada (sweetened condensed milk) to sweeten
the drink. Now that, my friends, is a real treat. If
you have never had café con leche sweetened with
leche condensada, you have not lived!
As simple and
easy as the recipe is, one question, however, has
haunted me for as long as I can remember: Why is it
that café con leche never tasted the same at someone
else’s house?
No matter where I
could be—a friend’s house for a sleepover, a
relative’s home, the neighbor’s house—their café con
leche always tasted completely different. I am not
saying it tasted bad, but it just did not taste like
my mother’s café con leche.
Perhaps it was
the salt. Or, perhaps it was the spirit of the many
tin pots whose lives were ended prematurely by my
mother’s inattention adding character to the morning
drink. To this day, I have yet to find the answer.
And to make the riddle all the more maddening, I
have never been able to match my mother’s café con
leche in my own home.
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